Japan, the story so far...

Ok, so it's been a long time coming but I've committed myself to setting up this blog today.  It's raining out, and I'm just taking a lazy day.

Right, just to catch up, a lot has happened since I arrived in Tokyo two months ago.  I'll try to keep things as brief as possible.

Spent my first two and a half weeks hanging around Tokyo, where I stayed in several hostels, and also made my debut in the world of CouchSurfing, chez Yudai, who was an absolute legend!  Hit the big touristy venues, like the fish market and a Sumo tournament and met an array of fantastic fellow travellers.  Was given an introduction to hardcore karaoke.  Private booths for groups of all sizes, with reception only a phone call away to be summoned for orders of drinks and food.  It's how it's meant to be done.

Next stop was Kyoto, where I was overwhelmed by stunning temples, and rock gardens with names to long and difficult for my little brain to remember.  Spied a geisha briefly, but wasn't quick enough with my camera, and it's frowned upon to shout at them to tell them to slow the hell down.

Kyoto is also where I began my hitch-hiking career.  Keep meeting travellers with the Japanese Rail (JR) Pass, which is basically something that you buy before coming to Japan (it costs a bit) that gives you unlimited travel on the trains (both local and bullet) for two-three weeks.  I'm not eligible with my sodding visa, but you can't hold a grudge, can you.

Anyway, hitched my way from Kyoto to Hiroshima and onwards down as far as Nagasaki in the south over the course of two weeks.  Then went all the way back up to Tokyo again to say goodbye to a friend that was leaving, before hitching right back down again.

So many stories from hitching, I could go on at length, in fact the first attempt at blog writing was an entry of epic proportions that described the first day.  It got scrapped, so be thankful.  The generosity that I've encountered over the course of my time both getting lifts and standing like a tool with my thumb out waiting has been nothing short of amazing.  Passers-by often strike up conversation (usually while waiting for the pedestrian lights to change as I've found this to be a good spot to let drivers observe you), and offer encouragement and on one occasion chewing gum.  One time a woman, with a baby in some sort of carrier on her back, just came out of a supermarket and handed me a bag containing two cans of coffee (yup, cans of coffee) and some cheese rolls.  The fact that she had pretty much included everything that I'm allergic to in that package was also impressive, but no doubt unintentional.

Petrol pump attendants have earned a place in my heart for ever, and I've learnt to get friendly with them.  They often get roped into writing the place names on the whiteboard I received from my second lift, although because we wrote on it in permanent marker we now resort to sticking A4 sheets over it each time.  Also if they are filling up a car which has a number plate from my destination I have a suspicion that many of them sweet talk the drivers into picking me up.

Finally, and undoubtedly most importantly from the hitching perspective are the drivers who have picked me up.  Many of them are hoping to practice their English, although one or two I've got have had 0.0 English, and these have lead to some very confusing conversations, but often very amusing for both parties as we look blankly at each other and try to work out what various hand signals mean.

The kindness of drivers is by no means limited to stopping, picking me up and dropping me off on their way, although this is hugely appreciated.  A number of times, after my lift has agreed to take me where I'm going, or perhaps 50-60k further along my route, I've discovered that they were just on their way home from work and, in fact, have no reason to drive this way other than being helpful and have a chat.  Many have also brought me for coffee and/or quite a decent lunch and refused payment of any kind.

Luckily I've only had two dodgy experiences, and neither were particularly bad.  My first lift from Kyoto on day one wasn't going that far and was leaving the toll road at Osaka, while I was hoping to go onwards for Hiroshima.  So he stops the car just before the exit ramp and tries to tell me to get out.  I don't think he was trying to get me killed, I just think he was a bit of an ape.  The second guy was a very nice 63 year old chap who drove like the clappers in his Nissan Altima Coupe.  We averaged about 150kph on the toll road from Hiroshima to Tosu (distance: about 300k;  speed limit: 100kph) while listening to the Best of the Carpenters.  The whole time all I was thinking was that he'd survived this long, so he must able for it.  I didn't like the way his Gran Tourismo steering wheel kept shaking, though.  He's probably still trying to get the marks off the passenger seat from where I was gripping it with both my hands and my ass!

Anyway, currently in Beppu, which is hot spring central, after two weeks WWOOFing on an organic farm in Ogata, up in the mountains, but I think I'll save that for another entry, I think we're all tired at this stage!